1 - Grendlr (complete). Left body half, right body half, mouth, head, tail, tongue, left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, left and right tendrils.
2 - Cthonian (complete). Body, right leg, left leg, right arm, left arm, optional face plate.
mike
Wednesday, 16 January 2013
BfA - Bag 3 contents
This bag contains the phase four and five Strain creatures.
1 - Grendlr (complete). Left body half, right body half, mouth, head, tail, tongue, left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, left and right tendrils.
2 - Cthonian (complete). Body, right leg, left leg, right arm, left arm, optional face plate.
mike
1 - Grendlr (complete). Left body half, right body half, mouth, head, tail, tongue, left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, left and right tendrils.
2 - Cthonian (complete). Body, right leg, left leg, right arm, left arm, optional face plate.
mike
BFA - Bag 2 contents
Here are the complete contents of bag 2. This one contains the phase three Strain, two Samaritan Reavers and quite a few weapons for the female Samaritans.
Scythe Witch x2 (complete)
Brimstone x2 (complete)
Samaritan Reaver x2 (complete)
Las Carbines for female Samaritans (bodies in bag 4) x6
Grenade launcher x2
Lancer special weapon x2
mike
Scythe Witch x2 (complete)
Brimstone x2 (complete)
Samaritan Reaver x2 (complete)
Las Carbines for female Samaritans (bodies in bag 4) x6
Grenade launcher x2
Lancer special weapon x2
mike
Tuesday, 15 January 2013
Kara Black - Assembly
Next up is the leader of the Vanguard force on the Alabaster Station mission - Capt. Kara Black.
Kara comes in four pieces plus the base - Body, right arm with gun, left arm with sword, scabbard.
The assembly is extremely straight-forward - the gun is a very secure fit, contacting the model on the back (with a location lug) as well as the shoulder. The sword can be positioned in a few different ways, to give some variation from the studio version shown in the game. The scabbard is a simple plug-fit piece.
Here are the stage by stage photos -
Kara comes in four pieces plus the base - Body, right arm with gun, left arm with sword, scabbard.
The assembly is extremely straight-forward - the gun is a very secure fit, contacting the model on the back (with a location lug) as well as the shoulder. The sword can be positioned in a few different ways, to give some variation from the studio version shown in the game. The scabbard is a simple plug-fit piece.
Here are the stage by stage photos -
Cheers
mike
Monday, 14 January 2013
Akosha Nama - Assembly
The next miniature we are going to look at is another Vanguard character from bag 1 - Akosha Nama.
There are five for this miniature - Body, left leg, head, right arm and gun.
The process is just the same as outlined in the Morgan Vade article - clean the components first, then assemble them one at a time, being careful to let the glue dry before moving on to the next. The only difference with this miniature, is the leg needs to be attached to the body before the body can be glued to the base.
The leg, arm and head are all plug in pieces - so very easy to assemble. The gun is a little more tricky as there are no locating pegs (the pieces are too small) but the fit is accurate with the arms. It will help the gluing process if you carefully remove a little of the surfaces to be joined with a sharp blade or emery board - that gives a stronger join.
Stage by stage photos below.
cheers!
mike
There are five for this miniature - Body, left leg, head, right arm and gun.
The process is just the same as outlined in the Morgan Vade article - clean the components first, then assemble them one at a time, being careful to let the glue dry before moving on to the next. The only difference with this miniature, is the leg needs to be attached to the body before the body can be glued to the base.
The leg, arm and head are all plug in pieces - so very easy to assemble. The gun is a little more tricky as there are no locating pegs (the pieces are too small) but the fit is accurate with the arms. It will help the gluing process if you carefully remove a little of the surfaces to be joined with a sharp blade or emery board - that gives a stronger join.
Stage by stage photos below.
cheers!
mike
Morgan Vade - Assembly
The first miniature we're going to look at is Morgan Vade - one of the Vanguard characters found in bag 1.
Morgan comes in five pieces, plus the base - body, head, arm with bag, arm with pistol, las carbine.
The first thing to do, as with any of the miniatures, is to clean the pieces. This means removing the mould lines (the lines on the miniatures where the two halves of the mould meet), and any injection marks (the place where the plastic is injected into the mould cavity). The best way to do this is to carefully cut them away with a sharp craft-knife blade. Because of the nature of the plastic used, it's hard to get a smooth finish with a file - the plastic has a tendency to 'tear'.
Once the pieces are clean, you can assemble them. We recommend you use 'super-glue' (Cyanoacrylate glue), plastic cement glues won't work correctly as they are designed for a different type of plastic. The first thing I did was to attach the body to the base - (mainly so it would be easier to photograph for this article) but you can do that once all the pieces are glued together if you like. To make sure the miniature has a strong bond with the base, I smoothed off the underside of the feet with a emery board (home made in this case, but the ones you can buy are just as good) - this tears the surface very slightly, but as it's where the miniature attaches to the base - that doesn't matter.
It's important to make sure the first bond is dry before moving onto the next - otherwise the pieces will have a tendency to come apart again. You can speed up the drying with an accelerator (usually a spray), or by either using a hair drier or simply breathing on them (don't get too close!).
After that, it simply a case of attaching one component after another until the miniature is complete.
Morgan comes in five pieces, plus the base - body, head, arm with bag, arm with pistol, las carbine.
The first thing to do, as with any of the miniatures, is to clean the pieces. This means removing the mould lines (the lines on the miniatures where the two halves of the mould meet), and any injection marks (the place where the plastic is injected into the mould cavity). The best way to do this is to carefully cut them away with a sharp craft-knife blade. Because of the nature of the plastic used, it's hard to get a smooth finish with a file - the plastic has a tendency to 'tear'.
Once the pieces are clean, you can assemble them. We recommend you use 'super-glue' (Cyanoacrylate glue), plastic cement glues won't work correctly as they are designed for a different type of plastic. The first thing I did was to attach the body to the base - (mainly so it would be easier to photograph for this article) but you can do that once all the pieces are glued together if you like. To make sure the miniature has a strong bond with the base, I smoothed off the underside of the feet with a emery board (home made in this case, but the ones you can buy are just as good) - this tears the surface very slightly, but as it's where the miniature attaches to the base - that doesn't matter.
It's important to make sure the first bond is dry before moving onto the next - otherwise the pieces will have a tendency to come apart again. You can speed up the drying with an accelerator (usually a spray), or by either using a hair drier or simply breathing on them (don't get too close!).
After that, it simply a case of attaching one component after another until the miniature is complete.
That's it - the miniature is ready for priming and painting. In some cases (especially with the larger miniatures), there may be some gaps to fill between pieces, but we will look at that in another article.
mike
Friday, 11 January 2013
BfA - Bag 1 contents
Really quick post - here are the contents of bag one. All the parts are photographed so you can see which parts go with which miniatures.
Where the position of the fit is important we have tried to use a plug wherever possible, so that they will go together correctly. For example on the small right arm for Akosha, it's important that the position is just right or it's hard to position the gun. The plug join only allows you to assemble it in the correct position.
Here are the parts split for each of the miniatures in this bag -
A - Morgan Vade. Body, head, right arm with bag, left arm with pistol, las carbine
B - Hurley. Main hull, turret, aerial, post for attaching to base.
C - Akosha. Body, left leg (shown attached to body), head, right arm, gun
D - Kara Black. Body, right arm with gun, left arm with sword, scabbard
E - Barker Zosa. Body, right arm, power lifter unit, left knee pad, fusion lance, plasma thrower
Next article we will begin by assembling Morgan.
mike
Where the position of the fit is important we have tried to use a plug wherever possible, so that they will go together correctly. For example on the small right arm for Akosha, it's important that the position is just right or it's hard to position the gun. The plug join only allows you to assemble it in the correct position.
Here are the parts split for each of the miniatures in this bag -
A - Morgan Vade. Body, head, right arm with bag, left arm with pistol, las carbine
B - Hurley. Main hull, turret, aerial, post for attaching to base.
C - Akosha. Body, left leg (shown attached to body), head, right arm, gun
D - Kara Black. Body, right arm with gun, left arm with sword, scabbard
E - Barker Zosa. Body, right arm, power lifter unit, left knee pad, fusion lance, plasma thrower
Next article we will begin by assembling Morgan.
mike
Battle for Alabaster miniatures
As I mentioned over on the Studio McVey Forums, I am going to be posting a series of articles here about assembling the miniatures that come in Sedition Wars: Battle for Alabaster.
This first brief article just covers what you get in the box - and how they are organised. In the next one we'll start looking at specific examples, and then some hands-on assembly.
When you take all the printed material from the box - you will get to the miniatures in the bottom of the box (see the unboxing video here for a general over-view of what you get in the game box). They are bagged together as they come out of the production moulds. This means that some of the parts for miniature will be in separate bags - for example, the las carbines for the female Samaritans are in one bag and the bodies are in another. I will make all of that completely clear in these articles though, and take pictures of all the parts that go together.
For the time being - here are the relevant bags.
This first brief article just covers what you get in the box - and how they are organised. In the next one we'll start looking at specific examples, and then some hands-on assembly.
When you take all the printed material from the box - you will get to the miniatures in the bottom of the box (see the unboxing video here for a general over-view of what you get in the game box). They are bagged together as they come out of the production moulds. This means that some of the parts for miniature will be in separate bags - for example, the las carbines for the female Samaritans are in one bag and the bodies are in another. I will make all of that completely clear in these articles though, and take pictures of all the parts that go together.
For the time being - here are the relevant bags.
Bag 1 - Captain Kara Black, Corpsman Morgan Vade, Barker Zosa, Operator Akosha Nama, Hurley (all parts for all miniature are included in this bag)
Bag 2 - Scythe Witch x2, Brimstone x2, Samaritan Reaver x2 (complete), Weapons for female Samaritans, Grenadiers, Lancers
Bag 3 - Grendlr and Cthonian (complete)
Bag 4 - Male Samaritan x5 (complete), Female Samaritan with helmet x5 (no weapons), Female Samaritan without helmet x5 (no weapons), Phase one strain 1 (big arm) x5, Phase one Strain 2 (hunched over) x4, Phase 1 Strain 3 (claw hand) x5, Stalker x4, Quisimodo x4
Bag 5 - All bases.
That's it for now - next article soon where we'll be looking at the contents if Bag 1 in more detail.
mike
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